First there is the question of food. Please ignore all those cutsie cat food commercials, and don’t bother with the cat food aisle in the grocery store. Instead, go to a natural food store, or a pet supply store that specializes in natural products.

A premium quality food will have no by-products, no artificial colors, flavors or preservatives. It will list a meat-based protein source first, such as chicken or lamb. The better ones will have more than one protein ingredient.

Grains should be kept to a minimum, and should be whole grains, not fractions such as corn gluten meal or rice bran. There are many grain-free varieties on the market now, as grains are often the source of food allergies in cats.

Cats and kittens require a high protein, high fat diet.

Kittens should be fed two to four times a day, once or twice a day is enough for the adult cat. Pick up any leftover food after thirty minutes.

Don’t worry if it doesn’t look like the kitten is eating much. Even adult cats usually eat a small amount at a time, and kittens are very small animals. Cats also won’t eat if upset or nervous, as your new kitten will probably be.

Be sure to have water available at all times, though most cats do not drink much water, especially if they are eating canned food.

For food dishes, any small, shallow container will work. They seem to have the easiest time getting every last bit out of dishes with rounded bottoms. You can offer treats if you like, but don’t overdo it,or the cat will wait for them and not eat it’s regular diet. Too many treats will make your cat fat, which is unhealthy. Be sure to use a premium brand of treat as well, and never feed the soft ones – they contain harmful chemicals.

Though not a big part of a cat’s diet, many of them like some fruits and vegetables. Experiment to see what your kitten likes and use tiny bits of these for treats. Some foods they often like include cantaloupe, broccoli, green beans, asparagus and squash.

Treats can be used to train a cat, and can be useful in getting them used to brushing and nail trimming.

The next item you will need for a cat is a litter box or two. The type of litter you choose depends more on your preference than the cat’s, although as a rule I would avoid any scented litters.

Keep the boxes clean by removing solid waste several times a day. Clumping litters allow you to remove the urine as well, but these types may not be good for your cat’s health. The properties that allow the litter to clump together also cause it to clump in the cats intestine if they ingest too much of it. (They will often have a grain or two stuck to a paw, which they will swallow during grooming).

For non-clumping litters, stir the litter to disperse the urine, this allows it to dry quickly and lessens odor. Depending on how dirty it is, you should empty the box completely and replace the litter at least once a week.

The mother cat usually trains her offspring to use the litter box. Unless you have adopted a feral kitten that has never seen one, the most you may need to do is to put the kitten in the box and scratch the litter a little bit. Let him get out by himself, so he can orient himself to its location. A scratching post for your kitten will save your drapes and furniture. Sisal posts are best, but many cats enjoy the cardboard ones,sprinkled with a little catnip.

Get your kitten used to having his paws handled early on, in preparation for your trimming his claws. Buy a special scissors for the purpose, and make it a pleasant occasion for the kitten. Do this by giving extra yummy treats or by giving him lots of love and affection in between each snip of the scissors.

You will want to have your new kitten examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Friends and coworkers can act as referrals to veterinarians if you don’t have one in mind. Choose a vet as you would any doctor. You want someone you can be comfortable with, someone who will answer your questions and take time to talk about your concerns.

Kittens love to play – especially late at night. They don’t really need any special toys, but you may enjoy shopping for them. When giving them something to play with, give it the same thought you would in giving a toy to a baby or small child – as in can they swallow this?

While string and yarn are thought of as cat toys, they are actually dangerous. String can do severe damage to s cat’s intestines if they swallow it, and some cats will do that. I have made simple catnip toys by stuffing infant socks with dried catnip and sewing them closed. Paper bags also make great toys.

Cat beds are nice, but few cats restrict themselves to one sleeping place. You may find them on your bed, the back of the couch or your favorite chair. Where the sun is, so is the cat. Cats like small spaces, so the kitten will probably be most comfortable in a kitten-sized bed, which means you will have to replace it as she grows. A basket lined with a soft towel works fine, too.

The world is a scary place for young kitten, especially if it has just left its mother. To minimize stress, put your kitty in a quiet room by himself when you first bring him home. Put his food, water and other supplies in there with him and leave him alone for a while. Allow him time to get used to a new environment before adjusting to people. It’s amazing how quickly the kitten makes himself at home with you.

Cats are amazingly self-reliant animals. They will learn the ropes just fine. In a day or two, open the door to the cat’s room and let him begin to explore.

Kittens should come in pairs. One is fun, but two is better. The two will play together, sleep together and provide endless hours of entertainment and photo opportunities. They will also chase each other across your bed at 2:00 am.

About the Author

Elyse Grau is an herbalist and a long-time pet owner, well-versed in pet nutrition and feeding. She is the author of Pet Health Resource, your web guide to a healthy, happy dog or cat. The website strives to answer your holistic pet health questions through a large collection of articles.
http://www.pethealthresource.com

American Bobtails are not considered fully matured until they are about three years old and will live an average of twelve to twenty-one years. Originally only a longhaired breed, American Bobtails are now both long and short haired. The longhaired Bobtails have slightly shaggy medium-long hair that does not mat. Shorthaired Bobtails have a medium length, semi-dense double coat that is also mat resistant.

American Bobtail coats come in all colors, though white and brown is the most popular color. Many allergy suffers find themselves more comfortable around American Bobtails, they are not considered hypoallergenic. This breed of cat makes an excellent family pet and does very well with children and other household pets. They do not mind much of the rough and tumble play children are fond of. American Bobtails are described as friendly, talkative and social. They enjoy climbing so an indoor cat tree or cat condo is a must.

American Bobtails love to play games and have been known to initiate playtime with their families. They are also considered extremely intelligent and loyal. American Bobtails adapt easily to new environments, whether busy and loud or quite and serene and bond closely with their family. This breed is also sometimes used in therapy, as American Bobtails can be quite sensitive to the needs of humans. In general, American Bobcats are a healthy breed of cat; however, some are born without tails, which can cause some medical problems due to their shortened spines. torsion (bloat) and if they do not get enough exercise will quickly become obese, leading to other health problems.

There is a website that has great information on American Bobtails and most other breeds of cats. It has details that pertain to a cat breeds health, grooming, living conditions, best food choices and more, the website is called: Dog And Cat Facts, and can be found at this url: http://www.dogandcatfacts.com

By Robert W. Benjamin

About the Author

Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25+ years. He first released products on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970′s-80′s. Unknown Creatures http://www.unknown-creatures.com

1. Watch the forecast for sub-25 temperatures. – Don’t allow domestic animals (cats, dogs, rabbits) to be in exposed environments under 25 degrees Fahrenheit. At temperatures above 25, provide them with some sort of shelter. A three-sided shelter is fine as long as the animals can get out of the wind and cold. Insulated shelters are preferred, and the animals should have a bedding liner. For sub-25 weather, try to bring animals to a protected environment, such as a garage or basement..

2. Keep an eye out for frozen water bowls. – In general, animals won’t drink as much if their water is very cold, and they certainly can’t drink if their water source is frozen. Try to feed and water your animals in a warmer area, such as a garage, if freezing temperatures are a concern. This will help avoid dehydration..

3. Use pet foods high in fat content. – Fat helps animals maintain higher body temperatures. Check and compare ingredient labels when choosing the best food for your furry friends..

4. Keep an eye on cats. – Cats lose landmarks in the snow and can get lost easily. If possible, bring your cat inside during snowstorms..

5. Study the paws. – Snow and ice can stick between the toe pads of many animals. Keep excess fur trimmed away from paw pads, and check the animal’s feet for icy build up or signs of irritation or redness..

6. Keep pets away from open water. – Animals sometimes fall into water, especially when covered by thin layers of ice, so hypothermia is a concern. Make sure swimming pools are covered, and try to keep your pets away from other bodies of water, such as ponds..

7. Provide good bedding. – Quality bedding will provide lots of warmth. Avoid straw, because it can host mites, and uncovered cedar, due to potential pet allergies..

8. Watch out for thin dogs. – Some dogs, such as hounds, have low body fat. This makes them more susceptible to cold. Keep a close eye on these animals, and try to play it safe by offering warmer, covered areas early..
Source: Donna Tully, registered vet.

About the author: Donna Tully is a registered vet.

This Article was provided by CatNews.org
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